After a longish wait…. the swell has finally come good.
I keep trying to remember that it is the South African summer here right now…. and big swells are not that frequent…. but this one exceeded all expectations.
Katy surfed her 9′ 0″ in the dawny…. it was head high and cranking, by the time I got out after taking a little video, katy had given up…. it was getting bigger and more solid, till the peak of the swell around Low Tide, at midday.
I had 2 solid sessions on my 6′ 8″…. I love bigger waves on my mal’….. but this was just not a longboard day!
As you can see from the photo…. Katy managed to get me in full flight at the bottom of a nice one….. 4 hours in the water today…. That bottle of wine with the evening meal had no chance!