All too often, coming home after a good surf trip can just feel S*!t. Cold air temp, no sunshine, colder water temps, and surf just not as good as where you have come from.
BUT it isn’t always bad.
Home for me is “Newquay” and my local beach is Fistral, As it was High tide around 10.30 am. most of the action was at South Fistral. Luckily for me, my daughter Katy was on hand to capture a few images, and as Katy was not in the water…. most of the shots, for a change, were of me…Yippee!
As “South” can be a little “Fat” on take off, I chose to ride a longboard…. a good call I feel, as it made the take off more easy…. things did get a little “Hectic” on the inside…. overhead waves, breaking hard whilst paddling out on a 9 footer can be interesting…. very interesting.
I had a few “Bombs” and also paid my “Dues” a few times… trying to rail turn “Hard” on a 9 foot mal with only a single fin can lead to a few issues, and this did lead to a “Zip Down” Wetsuit wash-out on one occasion…. Brrrrr! wow, that was a shock.
All in all it was a Top Day, it is not often that my home break rivals my “Surf Trip” locations…. but this was one of those days.
Life is what you make it, i was feeling a little down a few days before these shots were taken, and had to “Stop and Think” just how lucky I was…. and Wow, the next day…. cracking surf. I feel “Charged” again, and cannot wait for that next adventure….. what-ever it might be.