It has been “Cookin’” in J bay the past few weeks, almost back to back small to medium swells with only a few days here and there with bad winds.
Katy and I have been clocking up many hours of water time. In swells from waist high right up to 2 x Head-high. We have both been trying to surf Longboards all the time, but the odd day requires a short board…. although Longboards go well on the waves on the bigger days…. paddling out can be a bit of a mission!!
Logging up 2 and even 3 surfs on most days I am tired! I have not been as fit as I would have liked, and having the compulsory Red Wine at the end of the day is not helping. I must try to give it up….. Yeah right!
Even the “Sunrise” is super cool….. it does take some getting used to, when the sun rises over the sea instead of setting! Not so unusual really, but most surf in the world comes from the west….. as it does here in SA, but with J bay facing “East” the swell has to wrap around by 180 degrees…. which is one of the reasons it is always so clean.
This bottom shot is one of my favourites so far this trip… it was one of the bigger days, and I was on my 6′ 8″ thruster, but I feel it captures all the “Flavour” that is J bay on a medium to big swell. Do not forget…. this in NOT Supertubes….this is omly “The Point” on this swell, “Supers” was way bigger and for the “Men” only! I now have to accept I am just an “Old Ballie”. Not quite “Old Fart” in Afrikaans …. but you get the idea.