It sends a sense of “Panic” to the brain…. Will we have more good swells? Will the wind be off shore? Will my Knee and Shoulder get better ready for the “Last Good Swell”?……the list goes on and on.
So best to concentrate on each day as it comes!!
Today was a GOOD DAY, the predicted swell arrived on time, I woke up to see neat lines accross the bay, and a handful of guys out already. Shoulder to Head High and clean…. if not quite perfect. Mellow takes offs and Long Walls were the order of the day…. I had gott’n in 2 surfs before lunchtime!!
“Point” at J Bay is really a great Longboarders Wave…. Slightly slow and rolling at the take off, then after the 1st turn…. it “Feels” the reef, and starts to wind off along the water depth contour….. depending on the size. Always time for a noseride…. and usually time for a Cutback or two…. but it is just the whole “Summer Flavour” that I love….. it feels like a throwback in time, to somewhere like….. Southern California, but with modern boards and way less people in the water.
I feel that I could surf here till I grow OLD… or at least for as long as I can still carry my board down to the waters edge….. a truly “Magical Place”
The photo above is me on my 9′ 0″ just Nose Cruisin’…. in the late afternoon.