The end of a great 10 days…..


Well….. what a “Top” 10 days. Swell has been up and down, but the conditions have stayed the same….

Mainly Hot and Sunny, with off-shore winds, the occasional on-shore spell, but I have surfed every day except one, and often 2 or 3 time a day.

I have surfed more distance in this last 10 days than the whole summer back home.CIMG8159

Even the small days have been good. Longboards have been “The Go” for me on most of the days at “The Point”, but even I have needed my trusty 6′ 8″ “Indo Fish” on a few of the bigger days, but “Supers” has been firing most of the time…. but the testosterone level is way higher up there, and I am not fully “Surf Fit” if you know what I mean.Big J Bay

The “Big” day was the one, it has been the best swell this year, according to the locals…. how lucky was I, arrived 2 days before it kicked in, even though I did not surf J bay on the big day…. I went looking for “Smaller Perfection” …. it is hard not to be mesmerized by it’s majesty. It is hard to imagine surfing waves this big and perfect for 200 metres, but that is exactly what the top guys were doing…. Hat’s Off to them….Ball of steel!

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