Well, what a difference a day makes…. or 10 to be precise!
The past week (or so) has again been good, and Good in J bay is the same as “Perfect” in most other places!
The final day in the 10 day spell was just EPIC, I am as keen as it is possible to get for surfing good waves (allowing for my advancing years) and I lasted until lunch time.
It is hard to get your brain around the fact that your body is no longer able to function properly, just too tired. The waves are still perfect, you can see them, and yet when you try to ride them, you cannot turn hard, you miss judge lip speed and cutback angle and the list goes on…. but you still stay out there just “Flapping” around as if in some sort of mind boggled state. All very strange.
It is not until you come in, sit down a reflect, that it all seams to make sense…. only then do you realize you are “Surfed Out”. An old fashioned term, that is used all to quickly these days….. it does not mean you are “Happily Tired” from riding a couple too many good waves, or you think you need a “Latte” and an open topped sandwich to get you fit again to return to the ocean…. it means you are unable to function properly as a result of going way past tired….
The only way to re coupe…. is to call it “A Day”, and try to remember the best waves.
I have been “Surfed Out” in a few places in the World…. Morocco in those early days, Indo on various occasions, but most frequently in Jeffrey’s Bay…. ‘cos when it is “Good” here it is amazing.